There are a few force-boarders, far out, but that's more like a cross between jetskiing and windsurfing than real surfing. No one's taking advantage of the curling waves, it's true.

(That's because there's another beach, a few miles down, which was specifically designed for big waves. It's invariably crowded on any nice afternoon, and there are some surfers around even on the grey drizzly days.)

"It's the sea," River says, in response to his head jerk. "You can hear it."